Laura Biagiotti, who helped transform her mother’s business from a small tailoring shop in Rome to an internationally recognized ready-to-wear fashion brand, died on Friday at aged 73.

Biagiotti died in hospital in the Italian capital where she had been in intensive care after a heart attack this week.

Born in 1943 at the height of World War Two, she studied literature and had wanted to become an archaeologist.

Instead, she decided to help her mother, whose small atelier had won a contract in 1964 for the flight attendant uniforms of flag carrier Alitalia and soon after was commissioned to produce a collection for the U.S. market by Seventh Avenue group.

Biagiotti designed clothes for stars including Ingrid Bergman and Bette Davis while working with stylist Emilio Federico Schuberth in the heady fashion years of the 1960s. She first presented her own ready-to-wear line in 1972 in Florence.

The business later opened its headquarters near Rome’s Spanish Steps, where many fashion houses have their showrooms.

One of Biagiotti’s last public appearances was at a news conference to announce Rome would host the Ryder Cup in 2022 at the Marco Simone Golf and Country Club situated 17km from the Italian capital, where Biagiotti was president.