German fashion designer Yolanda Zobel parted company with Courreges on Friday, less than two years after she was brought in to revive the French fashion label.
Her departure comes just a month before she was meant to show her latest autumn-winter collection at Paris fashion week.
Courreges said she was leaving after they “mutually decided to end their collaboration”.
She would now “focus on new creative projects”, the brand added in a statement.
Zobel — who drew inspiration from Berlin’s dance scene – was seen as a breath of fresh air when she was brought in in February 2018 to rethink the brand, best known for its 1960s futurist look.
She vowed to bring Courreges back to its mould-breaking roots and create “a whole new universe for a free human… engaged and yet able to indulge in liberating moments of fun.”
Zobel quickly made headlines by promising to do away with the space-age vinyl that has been the label’s stock and trade since its foundation in 1961 by French engineer Andre Courreges and his wife Jacqueline.
She launched a numbered capsule collection called “Fin de Plastique” (The End of Plastic) that counted down its stocks of vinyl, promising to replace it with a sustainable version of the shiny fabric.
Yet she struggled to create a new personality for the brand — whose look so defined early 1960s rebellion — although her last collection, shown on a canal barge in Paris, was praised by critics.
Courreges said her final collection, for autumn-winter 2020, will be presented at the end of January.
The daughter of a jewellery creator, Zobel made her name working for Giorgio Armani, Chloe, Jil Sander and the avant-garde Acne Studios.
Courreges is owned by Artemis, the holding coming of the Pinanult family, the French fashion dynasty whose Kering group includes such mythic brands as Gucci, Saint Laurent and Balenciaga.
It took total control of the label in September 2018, seven months after Zobel’s appointment.
The women embroiderers of the remote Mexican mountain village of Tenango de Doria made worldwide headlines this week when their government went to war with an American designer for “plagiarising” their patterns.
Wes Gordon, the artistic director of the New York label founded by Venezuelan designer Carolina Herrera, found himself accused of cultural appropriation.
The women of the indigenous community in the east of the country told AFP how they felt cheated of their traditional motifs where “each element has a personal, family or community meaning”.
It is the latest in a long line of controversies where multinational brands stand accused of ransacking the cultural heritage of poor villagers.
Four years ago another indigenous Mexican community complained that the French designer Isabel Marant had lifted a 600-year-old Tlahuitoltepec blouse design that is the symbol of the Mixe people.
Mexico has also previously protested about Zara, Mango and Michael Kors designs.
Tougher copyright laws
Some of the country’s leaders now want to toughen a copyright law that already protects traditional patterns to punish “plagiarism that different indigenous peoples have suffered”.
It is a suggestion that sent a chill down the spines of some designers at Paris fashion week.
Berluti’s new artistic director Kris van Assche — who headed Dior’s menswear line for 11 years — told AFP that “when I was at fashion school we learned that there was nothing shameful about taking inspiration from other cultures.
“We must be careful not to attack everybody for everything,” the Belgian creator added.
Rising young Spanish star Alejandro Gomez Palomo still more forthright.
“Cultural appropriation is something we should all forget,” said the designer, who refuses to leave his own Andalusian village where his Palomo Spain label is based.
‘It belongs to everyone’
“Culture belongs to everyone. Rather than harming us, (referencing indigenous styles) brings us all a little closer and Mexico to the world,” he added, stoutly defending Gordon and the veteran Herrera, who stepped back from designing last year.
“It’s like people accused me of cultural appropriation for having a frilly (gypsy) dress,” he declared.
British designer Kim Jones, who took over last year from Van Assche at Dior Homme, has a more nuanced view, insisting “a huge amount of sensitivity has to be put into place.
“You have to treat everyone with a great deal of respect. I grew up all over the world so you see how things are very particular. In Africa, if you go even from village to village you see a different styling.
“But as long as you speak to the people, work with them and listen to them and celebrate what they do it is fine,” he added.
Jones, however, learned the hard way during his long reign at Louis Vuitton just how fine the line between homage and appropriation can be.
Having grown up in Kenya and Tanzania, he referenced the shuka, the famous red and blue checked robe of the Maasai people, in a 2012 Vuitton menswear show.
It sparked protests from some, particularly as the cloth was woven in Scotland.
But in a twist which shows how complex these issues can become, the shuka had its origins in the tartan that Scottish traders and missionaries brought to East Africa’s Great Rift Valley in the 19th century.
The Maasai have since hired lawyers to wring cash and credit from companies like Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Jaguar Land Rover and other multinationals who have used Maasai iconography.
“With the Maasai, Vuitton made a donation,” he revealed.
For Jones, the thorny issue boils down to two choices, “whether it is cultural appreciation or cultural appropriation”.
Designers can get carried away with themselves “trying to make stories out of things but sometimes they do not know the backstory, the history.
“But if someone has made the things with the people who actually create them in the first place, that is something that is actually positive,” he added.
“When I worked with things that have been culturally referenced we either asked permission of the people that worked with it and they get a royalty, or we work with them to make the things, so you are actually helping them, which is really essential.”
New York designer Thom Browne agreed, telling AFP Saturday that “everybody has to be conscious and sensitive to the world”.
But for the Danish creator Henrik Vibskov there has to be a bigger philosophical leap.
“The world we live in is getting smaller and the only way mankind can reflect this is by meeting other peoples.
“Hopefully this generation creates a new culture,” he added.
French fashion house Givenchy on Friday named pop princess Ariana Grande as the face of its fall/winter campaign, calling her “a strong, independent woman of refreshing character and style.”
“A modern muse and the voice of a generation, Ariana has emerged as one of the most influential forces in pop culture today,” Givenchy, which is owned by the luxury goods conglomerate LVMH, said in a statement.
“She naturally embodies the spirit of the Givenchy woman with impertinence, generosity and a lightning wit – all cloaked in a touch of mystery.”
The announcement came one day after the fashion brand teased the reveal, posting to social media a video clip with the silhouette of a woman quickly identified as Grande thanks to her signature high, extra-long ponytail.
“I am so proud to be the new face of Givenchy. It is a house I have forever admired, and to now be part of that family is such an honor,” Grande said of her first campaign for a major luxury house.
“I love this clothing and the confidence and joy it brings to the people wearing it. Not only is the clothing timeless and beautiful, but I’m proud to work with a brand that makes people feel celebrated for who they are, and unapologetic about whatever they want to be.”
The 26-year-old Grammy winner’s Givenchy campaign is set for release in July.
In a new teaser published Friday, Givenchy portrays Grande as a modern-day Holly Golightly from the classic film “Breakfast at Tiffany’s,” dressing her in the character’s iconic little black dress – a Givenchy number – worn by actress Audrey Hepburn.
Considered the “original brand ambassador,” Hepburn shared a muse-designer relationship with the house’s founder Hubert de Givenchy for decades.
Grande is the second pop idol to announce a collaboration with LVMH Friday, after Rihanna said she was teaming up with the French giant to launch her own luxury fashion brand in the spring — making history by becoming the first black woman to head up a house for the firm.
Nigerian actress Adesua Etomi Wellington has been featured on the latest issue of the Vogue Magazine to the delight of her fans.
Her appearance on the popular magazine cover rode to viral glory on Thursday after fans latched on to her husband’s post.
An excited Bankole Wellington, a.k.a Banky W, had tweeted a photo of the cover with the words, “Breaking news: My wife is on the cover of @voguemagazine!!!!!!!!!!”.
In the cover photo of the issue tagged ‘a celebration of global’, Adesua was seen side by side three other woman in what appeared to be a celebration of diversity.
With over five years of a blossoming career, the alluring actress has won the hearts of many as she has taken up major roles in several Nollywood box office hits.
Beyond being excited, Banky W went further to tweet: “@AdesuaEtomiW you are such an inspiration!!! I’m soooo PROUD of you and happy for you. This is only the beginning, by God’s grace. Shine like the star you were always meant to be, baby. Shine!!!”
@AdesuaEtomiW you are such an inspiration!!! I’m soooo PROUD of you and happy for you. This is only the beginning, by God’s grace. Shine like the star you were always meant to be, baby. Shine!!! pic.twitter.com/wpcqLLxvt4
Arguably the most influential fashion magazine in the world, Vogue has been setting fashion standards for over a century and is the top-selling fashion magazine in the world with editions globally, like Italian Vogue and British Vogue.
This latest issue features 14 countries and 14 superstars including Scarlett Johansson, Doona Bae and Deepika Padukone.
The designer invited Viard on to the podium with him at the end of two Chanel shows last year to acknowledge how much he relied on a woman he called “my right and left hand” to transform his sketches into glittering reality.
In a statement on Tuesday, Chanel said Lagerfeld was “an extraordinary creative individual… a prolific creative mind with endless imagination”.
French President Emmanuel Macron and his wife Brigitte offered their condolences to the designer’s family and colleagues, the Elysee Palace said, adding that the designer had “helped define French style and elegance”.
“France owes so much to this aesthete whose creative genius has left a mark on the imagination of our country and made it shine around the world,” it said in a statement.
Lagerfeld’s longtime muse, Ines de La Fressange, one of the world’s first supermodels, told AFP that he “never rested on his laurels, never doing the same thing twice”.
“I saw him draw surrounded by 15 people. He was the opposite of the great couturier who had to suffer to create. He did nothing but work yet he refused to make it look like work,” she added.
Italian designer Donatella Versace led the tributes among fashion’s leading players as news of Lagerfeld’s death broke.
“Karl, your genius touched the lives of so many, especially Gianni and I,” she wrote on Instagram, referring to her murdered brother who founded her brand.
“We will never forget your incredible talent and endless inspiration. We were always learning from you.”
Bernard Arnault, the most powerful man in fashion and owner of the luxury giant LVMH, said he was “infinitely saddened” by the loss of a “very dear friend” and a “creative genius”.
“Fashion and culture have lost a major inspiration. He contributed to making Paris the fashion capital of the world,” the billionaire said.
US First Lady Melania Trump, a former model, paid tribute to Lagerfeld on Twitter, saying “today the world lost a creative genius”.
The singer and former French first lady Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, who had worked as a model for Lagerfeld, wrote a touching tribute to her former mentor on Instagram.
“Thank you for bringing beauty and lightness in our world, so much colour in the darkness, so much wit in our dull days… The whole world and I will miss you.”
In an equally emotional tribute, actress and model Diane Kruger said she was not able to get to his bedside in time.
“I cannot tell you how much you meant to me and how much I will miss you,” the German star wrote on Instagram.
But while the Hamburg-born creator’s razor wit won him many fans, it also landed him in trouble.
Despite formerly being overweight himself, Lagerfeld caused a furore for lashing “fat women sitting in front of televisions with their pack of crisps” for “saying slim models are hideous.”
And he provoked even more outrage in 2017 by attacking German Chancellor Angela Merkel for opening the country’s borders to migrants.
“One cannot kill millions of Jews so you can bring millions of their worst enemies in their place,” he told a French TV show.
‘I’d rather die’
The controversies were drowned out, however, in a wave of tributes, with British pop star turned fashion designer Victoria Beckham praising Lagerfeld’s “genius” and generosity.
“Thanks for the dry shampoo tip. Will always think of you as I powder my wig,” joked British designer, writer and model Alexa Chung on Instagram, echoing the designer’s love of repartee.
Lagerfeld had long declared that he didn’t want to be mourned at a grandiose funeral like the one France granted its rock legend, Johnny Hallyday.
“What a horror!” he cried. “There will be no burial. I’d rather die… I’ve asked to be cremated and for my ashes to dispersed with those of my mother and those of Choupette (his cat), if she dies before me,” he said.
“I just want to disappear like the animals in the virgin forest,” Lagerfeld added.
Dior said Friday it was bringing forward its Paris fashion week show after its flagship shop was looted during “yellow vests” protests.
The luxury brand’s men’s spring-summer show was to have been taken place a week Saturday, when more anti-government protests are likely in the French capital.
Dior refused to say if it was bringing the January 19 show forward a day to avoid trouble.
However, demonstrators smashed up its Champs Elysees boutique on November 26 and stole goods and caused damage reportedly to the tune of one million Euros.
Others scrawled graffiti declaring “Screw the rich and immigrants”.
Slogans including “The people want Dior” were plastered on the building after earlier protests.
Luxury boutiques have become a frequent target of the protests, which began in November as a revolt against a rise in fuel prices but which have since morphed into an expression of general discontent.
Chanel, which protected the windows of its shops with fashionably black plywood cladding, has also become a magnet for graffiti, sprayed with slogans such as “Yellow is the new black” and “A perfume of victory”.
The US designer Thom Browne also moved his Saturday show to earlier in the day, while other brands have so far not said whether they will be affected.
Supermodel Bella Hadid set social media alight Wednesday by appearing at a Louis Vuitton dinner during New York fashion week in a luminous yellow vest designed by the creator of its men’s line, Virgil Abloh.
The American came up with the design as a part of his first show for the label earlier this year, but the model’s appearance in it still set tongues wagging.
Many Paris fashion shows traditionally take place near the Champs Elysees, which has been the focus for the “yellow vests” weekly Saturday demonstrations, which often end in violence.
Police have tried to contain protesters by closing metro stations and redirecting traffic from the area.
Paris men’s fashion week begins on Tuesday and is followed by the haute couture shows, which will run until January 24.
The planet’s top models transformed into angels for Victoria’s Secret glitzy fashion show Thursday, donning wings, barely-there lingerie and plaid for a return to New York after a two-year hiatus.
With the show once again on US soil, sisters Gigi and Bella Hadid strode the runway at Manhattan’s Pier 94 with the likes of Kendall Jenner and Victoria’s Secret newcomer Winnie Harlow.
The runway extravaganza of underwear, paired with sky-high stilettos, gladiator boots and the occasional argyle sock, is now in its 24th year. Taped Tuesday, it will be broadcast worldwide on December 2.
Sixty models put on an Amazonian display of luscious waving locks, impossibly perfect slender bodies and sun-kissed make-up for what is considered one of the most competitive gigs in the industry.
The “Fantasy Bra” — each year the piece de la resistance of the collection — was modelled by Sweden’s Elsa Hosk — a $1 million confection of 2,100 Swarovski diamonds that took 930 hours to make.
In the biggest, most typed fashion show in the world, music was provided this year from a bevvy of stars led by Rita Ora. The show was the culmination of weeks of fittings and Instagram-trailed publicity for the brand.
The purpose of the lavish spending is, of course, to sell bras and knickers. Last year, the show was held in Shanghai as the US brand sought to push into China’s growing lingerie market.
The 2018 show was distinctive by a collaboration with London-based designer Mary Katrantzou that showcased psychedelic bodysuits.
Brazilian model Adriana Lima told AFP backstage in hair and makeup that it never gets old despite being her 18th Victoria’s Secret show.
“I really thought that over the years I would get more relaxed and used to it. I get as nervous, as anxious as I have been,” she said.
“We have fun,” said French model Cindy Bruna.
“It’s not about making sacrifices. It’s about working for what you want,” she said. “We’re here today, so it’s worth it.”
The organizers may have banked on New York hosting a smoother show. Last year, Gigi Hadid and singer Katy Perry, who had been due to perform, were reportedly denied visas to enter China.
Model Ming Xi — who walked again Thursday — tripped last year on the catwalk. In 2016, the show was held in Paris. In the past, it has also been held in Los Angeles, Miami and London.
The Prince of Wales, Prince Charles, and his wife, the Duchess of Cornwall, hosted fashion designers from Nigeria ahead of their upcoming tour to Africa.
The event, held at the yesterday at St James Palace in London, England, was attended byWest African creatives with models wearing designs from the Lagos Fashion Week, which officially kicks off in Lagos today.
The designers whose pieces were showcased include Nkwo, whose designs are made in Nigeria with locally sourced fabrics in northern Nigeria and Eki Orleans whose designs are heavily rooted in Africa and a celebration of the link between Nigeria and the UK.
The reception details were shared on the official Instagram page of Prince Charles and Princess Camille.
“Ahead of The Prince of Wales and The Duchess of Cornwall’s visit to The Gambia, Ghana and Nigeria, their Royal Highnesses today hosted a reception for British West Africans from areas including media, sport, fashion, the arts, education and charity,” the post read.
Italian fashion giant Versace is about to be sold, the country’s biggest-selling newspaper said Monday, citing anonymous sources who suggested the deal could come in the next few hours.
Donatella Versace, the brand’s artistic director and vice-president of the group, has called a staff meeting in Milan for Tuesday, according to the Corriere Della Sera newspaper.
Celebrity shoemaker Jimmy Choo, luxury jeweler Tiffany & Co and US fashion group Michael Kors Holdings were listed as possible buyers.
The company in its entirety is estimated to be worth some $2.0 billion (1.7 billion euros), the report said.
Versace could not immediately confirm the news to AFP.
Twenty percent of the brand, known for its Medusa head logo, was bought by US private equity group Blackstone in 2014, and the family owns the rest.
The group, founded by designer Gianni Versace in 1978, boosted sales of 686 million euros in 2016 and turnover is expected to exceed one billion euros in the “short term”, CEO Jonathan Akeroyd said in June.